The Lumberjackie sweater is a fitted, cropped sweater. The tapered sides are a relief from boxy sweaters and features a wide waist band to accentuate your figure. Partially based on a 1940s pattern, this top also features a straight needle collar. The waist is patterned to be approximately 25% smaller than the bust (example: bust 36, waist 27).
Sizes range from 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)* inches in the bust with size 7 and 8 needles and a gauge of 16x22. You will need approximately 1024 (1280, 1280, 1536, 1536) yards of worsted weight yarn.
1. Cast on 52 (60, 66, 72, 78) on size 7 needle
2. Purl from wrong side 1 row.
3. Work a 2x2 rib (k2, p2) for 3 inches.
4. With size 8 needle, begin a stockinette with an increase 1 st on each side: K 1, M1L, K to last 3 sts, M1R, K1. This will prevent a curved side seam.
5. Stockinette 3/4 an inch and inc. 1 st on each side as in step 4.
Repeat this step 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) more times: 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sts
6. Stockinette until piece measures 11 (11.5, 12, 12.5, 13) inches [28 (29, 30, 31.75, 33) cm]
Shape Armholes
1: Bind off 5 (6, 8, 9, 11) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows: 62 (68, 72, 78, 82) sts.
2. On next right side row, make a left-leaning decrease: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts and make a right-leaning decrease by k2tog, k1—60 (66, 70, 76, 80) sts.
3. Purl 1 row. Repeat last 2 rows 4 (5, 7, 8, 10) more times—52 (56, 56, 60, 60) sts.
4. Stockinette until armholes measure 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9)” [18 (19, 20.5, 21.5, 23) cm]
5. Cast off 13 (15, 15, 17, 17) sts at the beginning of the next two rows.
6. Make a 1x1 rib for 1 inch with remaining 26 sts. Cast off.
1. Work same as back until armholes measure 4½ (5, 5½, 6, 6½)” [11.5 (12.5, 14, 15, 16.5) cm]
2. On next right side row, k20 (22, 22, 24, 24) for left front, cast off 12 sts, k20 (22, 22, 24, 24) for right front.
Work both shoulder pieces at the same time with separate balls of yarn.
3. Purl both fronts.
4: Knit to last 3 sts of first shoulder piece and make a right-leaning decrease with k2tog, k1. On 2nd front, make a left-leaning decrease with k1, ssk, k to end of row 19 (21, 21, 23, 23) sts for each shoulder piece. Repeat last 2 steps 5 more times—14 (16, 16, 18, 18) sts. Work even in Stockinette st on both fronts until armholes measure same as back armholes.
Bind off.
Sleeves (make 2)
1. With size 7 needles, cast on 32 (32, 36, 36, 40) sts.
2. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work in 2x2 Rib until piece measures about 2.5” (6.35 cm).
3. With size 8 needles, stockinette to 3 inches.
4. On next row, increase 1 st on each side by K1, M1L, K to last 3 sts, M1R, K1, stockinette 1.5 (1.25, 1.25, 1.125, 1.125) inches. Repeat this step 9 (11, 11, 13, 13) more times: 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) sts.
5. Stockinette until piece measures about 18 (18, 18½, 19, 19)” [45.5 (45.5, 47, 48.5, 48.5) cm]
Shape Cap
Row 1 (right side): Bind off 5 (6, 8, 9, 11) sts, knit to end of row—47 (50, 52, 55, 57) sts.
Row 2: Bind off 5 (6, 8, 9, 11) sts, purl to end of row—42 (44, 44, 46, 46) sts.
Row 3 (decrease row – right side): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—40 (42, 42, 44, 44) sts.
Row 4: Purl. Repeat last 2 rows 13 (14, 15, 17, 18) more times—14 (14, 12, 10, 8) sts.
Bind off.
Neckband
1. With right side facing size 8 needle, pick up 14 sts down left front neck edge, 12 at neck front, and 14 sts up right front neck edge— 40 sts.
2. Make a 1x1 rib for 1 inch.
3. Bind off loosely.
Sew shoulder seams, sleeve caps into armholes, side seams, and weave in ends.
*If you consider yourself to have very broad shoulders or have a very full bust, consider casting on the required stitches for one size up and increase to your normal bust size. The waist is narrow, and you want to make sure you can pull it over!
Hi, I am looking for a beginner friendly pattern, and I love the shape of this- do you think a novice could make this??Thanks
ReplyDeleteHello Miss Ophelia,
ReplyDeleteI wrote a small novel for your response:
I would recommend making a tester sample to practice some of the stitches such as ribbing, increasing, decreasing, etc. first. If you're not sure what a certain stitch is, a quick search on youtube will resolve it. Once you feel your practiced stitches look like photos/videos online, you might be ready to make your first sweater. :) I've made this sweater a few times, and I guarantee you cannot take shortcuts with the shaping. For example: for decreasing stitches to make the piece get narrower, you have to make the decreases as directed.
Second beginner tip: When you weave in your ends, leave about a 1 inch tail to prevent the yarn from poking through to the front. Cutting them very short will cause fuzzy ends showing through.
Third beginner tip: if you want your sweater to stay beautiful, do a bit of searching to see which yarns are rated best. Opting for the cheapest yarn might result in the sweater looking ratty in a short amount of time.
Fourth: Many "beginner" sweater patterns are "seamless." I think double pointed needles are trickier for a beginner knitter than straight needles, but it's really up to your experience. If you don't feel uncomfortable with seams, check out patterns labeled as "seamless" and that have double pointed needles in the required supplies section. Again, I think flat knitting is easier for a beginner, just make sure to not rush the seaming (I did on my first sweater, and it had gaps in the sides as it stretched out).
I've been knitting about a year, so I'm by no means a pro. However, a bit of practice and following directions can make all the difference! I encourage you to have fun and enjoy. Thanks for commenting. :)
Hi, thank you! I have done a bit of ribbing and increasing,I am knitting a basic shawl right now. So I will remember all your pointers. My only concern with your pattern is that I have a much flatter chest, will the shaping make it baggy in the front for me?? I am going to bookmark your pattern so that when I am a little better I can have a go! Thank you very much.
DeleteI've made some estimations for a 34 inch bust, though in hindsight I didn't ask what size you would be making lol. Oops. So, if you're a size small (US 4-6) with a bust smaller than 36 inches, this is for you:
DeleteFor step 5 of the back (which is mirrored for the front): Stockinette one inch and repeat increase row. Repeat this step six more times for a total of 68 stitches. Begin shaping underarm at 11 inches in length (or 12 inches if you want it slightly longer).
I didn't change much else as the waist, sleeves, and neck line are all about a size small:
Shape arm:
1: Bind off 4*Ophelia's size (5, 6, 8, 9, 11) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows: 60 *Ophelia's size (62, 68, 72, 78, 82) sts.
2. On next right side row, make a left-leaning decrease: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts and make a right-leaning decrease by k2tog, k1—58*Ophelia (60, 66, 70, 76, 80) sts.
3. Purl 1 row. Repeat last 2 rows 4 (5, 7, 8, 10) more times—50*Ophelia (52, 56, 56, 60, 60) sts.
4. Stockinette until armholes measure 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9)” [18 (19, 20.5, 21.5, 23) cm]
5. Cast off 12*O (13, 15, 15, 17, 17) sts at the beginning of the next two rows.
6. Make a 1x1 rib for 1 inch with remaining 26 sts. Cast off.
Front
1. Work same as back until armholes measure 4½ (5, 5½, 6, 6½)” [11.5 (12.5, 14, 15, 16.5) cm]
2. On next right side row, k19*O (20, 22, 22, 24, 24) for left front, cast off 12 sts, k19*O (20, 22, 22, 24, 24) for right front.
Work both shoulder pieces at the same time with separate balls of yarn.
3. Purl both fronts.
4: On next row, knit to last 3 sts of first shoulder piece and make a right-leaning decrease with k2tog, k1. On 2nd front, make a left-leaning decrease with k1, ssk, k to end of row 18*O (19, 21, 21, 23, 23) sts for each shoulder piece. Repeat last 2 steps 5 more times—13*O (14, 16, 16, 18, 18) sts. Work even in Stockinette st on both fronts until armholes measure same as back armholes.
Bind off.
To make the chest smaller, you could try making fewer increases. The bust increases an average of 8 stitches per size, which might yield a bust size of approximately 32 inches. If your bust is closer to 34 inches, you could simply increase the bust by 4 fewer stitches. If the sleeve, waist, and neckline look correct, keep that stitch count the same. :) Note this pattern is basically a boxy sweater pattern: the biggest difference is the waist is smaller. Think of it as the bust tapering down toward the waist, not the waist tapering up toward the bust. The bust would not be any baggier than a normal sweater: the waist is just smaller. Hopefully that helps, and happy knitting!
ReplyDeleteHi I've just seen all your comments! I am trying to absorb what they mean as I want to try to make it. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI think I will just try to make it with some wool I didn't pay much for and if it doesn't work, then it doesn't work! But there is a bit that confuses me: 4. With size 8 needle, begin a stockinette with an increase 1 st on each side: K 1, M1L, K to last 3 sts, M1R, K1. This will prevent a curved side seam.
ReplyDelete5. Stockinette 3/4 an inch and inc. 1 st on each side.
I am not sure what the M means or what the step 5 really means.... Thanks
Hi Ophelia. Step 4. With the larger needle, knit one stitch, make one left-leaning stitch (M1L), knit to last three stitches, make one right-leaning stitch (M1R), knit 1 stitch. Step 5. Then stockinette for 3/4 of an inch. On your next right side row, increase one stitch on each side (using the same method of step 4: K1, M1L, K to last 3 sts, M1R, K1). Hope that helps. As for the yarn, most yarn of the correct weight will work, but of course in the future I always recommend cruelty free yarns such as acrylic, modal, or cotton. :) They tend to shrink less and are often easier to care for. Happy knitting!
DeleteHi. I am an italian girl, fallo in love with knitting. I found tris pattern, that is delicious and your explication are super easy to follow. I tried to relize it, but I found two problems, and I just Want to ask you some advices. First problem: I am very short :D so the lenght on me, is not cropped lol. How can I make it a little bit shorter on my bust?
ReplyDeleteSecond problem: I really don't know how to make step two of the front, how can I work the shoulders with two different yarn ball?
Thank you so much. <3
Hello Marta! Thanks for reaching out. Here is a video on how to knit the shoulder straps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9m9ev89rTM
DeleteThe sweater is 18-22 inches (45.5-56 cm) in length. If this is too long, I would increase the stitches more frequently (see Back steps 3 and 4). Currently it is recommended the stitches be increased every 3/4 inch (2 cm), but if this would make the sweater too long for you, consider increasing the stitches every 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) and then stockinette to your desired length. :)
In the video, they make one strap, cast off, and then make the other. If you can handle dealing with two balls of yarn at the same time, I recommend working the straps at the same time. This will help ensure the straps are the same length. Here is a video on how to add a new ball of yarn (you would do this for one of the straps): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rffTZYniBo Just in case the first video was not clear enough on that step. :)
DeleteI am a size 40 bust. What size do you think would be best for me to knit, with keeping the look of the over-all pattern design?
ReplyDeleteHi Kate,
DeleteAccording to the instructions, a bust 40 would suffice. If you have broad shoulders, go up one size or make the waist larger. The waist will be approximately 29.5-30.5 inches, so if your waist is larger, consider sizing up.
Have a great day,
VMV
Is there any ease to the finished sweater. I am wanting wanting the fit to be just like you have in the pictures (the fit is amazing!). What size did you do for your measurements? Thanks for your help and I love your! blog!
DeleteHi Kate,
DeleteThank you, what a lovely compliment. I plan to add more patterns later this year.
I measured mine which was a size 36". I wear it all the time (like multiple times a week because I am easily cold, haha). With all of that wear, it has stretched to a 38" bust and a 29" waist. The waist, however, remember, must fit over your head, shoulders, arms, and bust. This is why if someone has particularly large shoulders, I recommend starting out with a larger waist. The yarn I used was a vegan acrylic (super warm) from Red Heart.
To calculate how many stitches you need, you can use this formula:
1) desired inches * stitches per 4 inches
2) divide step one's number by 4 = stitches needed
Example:
1) 40 (your bust) * 16 (the sts per 4 inches) = 640
2) 640 / 4 = 160 stitches
If you are flat knitting, like in this pattern, divide by 2: 80 stitches for the bust by step 6 (which coincidentally with this gauge is just your bust * 2, however that does not always work for every gauge) . You can use this formula to adjust based on your measurements. Remember the amount of give the sweater will have may depend on your yarn (a linen, for example, will have less stretch).
Happy crafting,
VMV
I love the look of this sweater! I'm currently working on the back portion and I'm on step 4, but when I reach the m1r k1, I still have 2 loops left on my left needle. Do I just knit those or am I doing something wrong?
ReplyDeleteHappy holidays! If you knit to the last 3 stitches and are following how to M1R, (https://youtu.be/qCV0VC0Yim4?t=21) and then knit one, it's okay to have two stitches remaining. You are knitting to the last 3 stitches, making a right-leaning increase, and then knitting the remaining stitches. I just made a note of knitting the stitch after the increase so you would know to not continue increasing. Hope that helps!
Deletemakes sense! thank you so much for the clarification!
DeleteHey, I love the rest of the design (simplicity, versatility, etc.) but the length is shorter than I would like; however, this design is the closest I've found to what I want to make. What would be the best way to elongate the pattern? (not by much, just a couple inches.)
ReplyDeleteHi Strawbearie! I wrote this pattern when I just learned to knit, so it's mostly based off of an existing pattern. If you wanted it a few inches longer, you would need the waist band wider, which makes it pretty much identical to the pattern from which this general pattern was inspired: https://www.allfreeknitting.com/Knitted-Sweaters/Solid-Staple-Sweater-from-Red-Heart-Yarn Happy knitting!
DeleteHi, I have started knitting the sweater, I am on the back up to the armholes. I have just realised it is looking very small in the waist. I am a UK size 10 (US size 6) I have a 34" chest. I am knitting the smallest size, would you recommend a bigger size? Sue x
ReplyDeleteHi Suep81! The waist for size 36 should stretch approximately to 27 inches. The instructions specify the maths a bit more: "The waist is patterned to be approximately 25% smaller than the bust (example: bust 36, waist 27)." Happy knitting!
DeleteThank you, I finished it and it fits 😀
DeleteHi, Sue! That is awesome, I'm so glad to hear it!
DeleteHi! Loving this pattern! However, my bust is little bigger than 36" but I'm afraid size 40" would be too big for me (I want to make a very fitted sweater). What changes to the instructions would you suggest?
ReplyDeleteHi Verna! I would knit between the 36 and 40 (doing the average of the two) and copy the arms, sleeves, and neck for the size you feel closer to. For example, if you have a fuller frame, I would follow the same instructions for the arms, sleeves, and neck for the size 40". If you have a more petite frame, I would follow the arms, sleeves, and neck for the 36". Remember: the waist is smaller than the bust, so it is snug to pull over the bust to get on. A skin-tight sweater is just not possible with yarn that doesn't stretch. Happy knitting!
DeleteHey, thank you for this pattern! I am working on the sleeves now and I have a question. When you say "3. With size 8 needles, stockinette to 3 inches.", does it mean stockinette for 0,5in (considering that the previous measurement was 2,5in) or should I knit for 3 inches? English is not my primary language so I thought I should ask :)
ReplyDeleteHello Raphaela! Lovely name! Your first assumption was correct: stockinette for .5 more inches or 3 more centimeters. Hope that helps. :)
DeleteOh thank you! I am so grateful that you replied (and so fast!) because knitting this sweater is making me so happy that I can't imagine stopping for a couple of days. Thank you for this pattern and for taking your time with all of our questions <3
DeleteHello, I'm a bit confused about what dimensions the gauge should measure to? I'm assuming 16x22 refers to stitches and rows, but how many inches does that equal? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteGood morning! Here is a response I had in more detail about the formula for a user who wanted to know the stitch count for 40 inches:
DeleteExample:
1) 40 (your bust) * 16 (the sts per 4 inches) = 640
2) 640 / 4 = 160 stitches
If you are flat knitting, like in this pattern, divide by 2: 80 stitches for the bust by step 6 (which coincidentally with this gauge is just your bust * 2, however that does not always work for every gauge) . You can use this formula to adjust based on your measurements. Remember the amount of give the sweater will have may depend on your yarn (a linen, for example, will have less stretch).
Hope that helps! 16 sts per 4 inches, 22 sts per 4 inches. :)
I think there is a mistake! in the sleeves you say to knit in 2x2 rib for 2.5 inches (5cm), but 2.5 inches are 6.35cm!
ReplyDeleteAnyways thank you for the pattern, it's lovely!
Thanks for catching that! The pattern has been updated. :)
DeleteI found another possible mistake in the back panel! After it says repeat step 4 eight times, the stitch count should be 70 instead of 72 unless i’m reading something wrong.
DeleteMy 13 year old daughter adores this sweater! However, she is quite petite, with a 25" bust and 23" waist.
ReplyDeleteCould you give me some guidelines on how to start? I would so appreciate it. I promised her over a year ago that I would make her a cropped sweater... :-(
Hi Tatiana! That is petite! I think for the bottom waist band, you would need to cast on 46 stitches. Increase at the sides up to 50. For the arm holes, I would follow the pattern below. It's designed for teens, and you can follow the instructions for the smallest size. It's knit in the same gauge, so you're good to go. I've used it to make more petite sweaters without any issues. You can follow the same neckline as that does not vary per size. :) https://www.yarnspirations.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-master-catalog-spinrite/default/dwbec8d979/PDF/RHK0340-014657M.pdf
DeleteOh you are adorable! Thank you so much for your quick response. I feel far more comfortable attacking it with your feedback and the link should help as well.
DeleteWe have a hard time finding cute clothes for my daughter and this sweater is just so beautiful.
Thank you!
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHello! Thank you for such a lovely pattern and it's so easy to follow! I am a size small so I am following the estimations you've made for a 34 inch bust (in the above comment). I have made the necessary adujstments to my pattern but I was just wondering if I need to adapt the sleeves/shape cap aswell? Or can I just use the smallest size for them? Thank you :)
ReplyDeleteHi Lucy! To keep things simple, I would follow the smallest one. I've experimented trying to make them smaller for a 34 inch bust, but if my gage is a bit small, they were too tight. I might re-work this pattern with more sizes, but that is perhaps a year or so away. :) Happy Knitting!
DeleteOk that's great, thank you so much! I'll go with the smallest size :)
ReplyDeleteHi! I found this blog through the Ravelry page for this sweater. I hope you don't mind me using this post to tell you how helpful your blog (and recipe blog) have been for me. You have a really great sense of style! :)
ReplyDeleteThat is very sweet of you to say, thank you! My husband and I hope to have a new blog ready within the next few years (including all kinds of new-and-improved knitting patterns ;) ).
DeleteThis is amazing, thank you for posting!
ReplyDeleteHowdy! How sweet of you to say, thank you! I hope to have a new-and-improved pattern available on mine and my husband's new blog coming soon. Have a great day!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi! I am loving this pattern and I am almost finsihing the front. I am confused about picking up the stitches for the neckband though, because all pieces have been bound off. What stitches should I be picking up, from which previously knitted pieces?
ReplyDeleteThank you in advance!!
Never mind, I figured it out! Thank you so much for the pattern, it fits me perfectly.
DeleteHi Tess, sorry for the delayed response! Glad you figured it out! Stitches for the neckband should be picked up from the front and back pieces after the shoulders are seamed together. Happy Knitting, and thanks for the feedback! <3
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI love every part of making this! However, one point is unclear to me: when you say “Stockinette until Armholes measure x” do you mean the actual edge of the armholes or that the total added rows measure the length of x?
Hello Jules :) The cast off edge from step 1 to the needle. Hope that helps!
DeleteIt does ☺️ Thank you!
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This is the most amazing pattern! My first fitted item and I’m hooked!
ReplyDeleteHi! Why are the M1R 3 stitches away from the edge when the M1L is one one stitch away on the front and back pieces?
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ReplyDeleteI found a possible mistake in the back panel! After it says repeat step 4 eight times, the stitch count should be 70 instead of 72 unless i’m reading something wrong.
ReplyDeleteHello i am a hit confused. Do you use straight needles or circular needles or a combo of both for the sleeves?
ReplyDelete