Friday, November 23, 2018

Tish Apron Pattern

photo of Tish apron modeled in black organza and white satin trim

The new Tish apron, named after Gomez's pet name for Morticia, is inspired by an apron Morticia wore in the 1964-1966 television series. It is based off of an authentic one-size 1950s apron pattern. Featuring a circle skirt, bib, crossed straps, and a waist tie, this apron creates a classic silhouette whilst protecting your frocks from boiling cauldrons.

Carolyn Jones as Morticia Addams wearing a maid outfit

This pattern is a one-size, good for approximately sizes S-L. If you are unsure of sizing, a mock-up is recommended.
You will need approximately 62 inches in satin blanket binding (or sub fabric for waist/tie), 20 feet of edge binding (such as bias tape), and 1.5 yards of fabric.
You can get the pattern pieces here:
Page 2
Page 3
Page 4
Page 5
Page 6 
Page 7
Page 8
Page 9
Page 10
Page 11
Page 12
At this time, the pattern pieces will only be available in this format.
The pattern pages start at #2 because I was going to include a tester page, for sizing, as the first. However, this would potentially be a waste of paper. Each square is equal to 1/4 inch or 16 squares is equal to 4 inches/10 cm.
I was not sure if I would post the pattern or not, so at this time, there are no pictorial instructions.

All seam allowances are 5/8 inch unless otherwise specified.
Step one:
Stay stitch waist edges.
Step two:
Bind edges of the top and sides of the bib as well as hemline of both skirt layers. Baste both skirt layers together with both right sides facing up and the largest skirt on the bottom.
Step three:
With wrong sides together, baste bib to skirt. Match centers before pinning. Use 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Step four:
Sandwich bib/skirt seam between satin blanket binding, once again matching centers. (To find center, fold pieces in half.) Pin and stitch closed from end to end.
Step five:
Stitch edges of each strap together, wrong side out. Turn and stitch to bodice between notches. Attach to skirt with angled edge attached to the opposite wrong side of waist approximately 1/2 inch from the back's opening edge. (The straps are permanently attached in a cross-crossed fashion. If you can't put it on over the head, you can add buttons to attach the straps at the waist. Both are historically accurate.)

Enjoy!

Saturday, July 28, 2018

Marquiese Ginham dress by L'ecole Des Femmes review

The Marquise Ginham dress features crisp gingham cotton, self-covered buttons, a box pleated skirt, and lace-trimmed cuffs with ties for decoration. All these details make for a feminine and girly frock fit for spring, summer, and fall.
picture of model in L'ecole Des Femmes Marquise Ginham Dress

Fit
The bust (unwashed) in a medium is likely good for a 36 inch bust. Since the sleeves are not patterned for mobility, I do not recommend buying small if you want to be able to lift your arms.
close-up of needle holes in cuff

I see evidence of some seam-ripping at the cuff. Whatever the mistake, this cuff was noticeable tighter than the other. Maybe I have wide forearms, but the elastic was a bit on the tight side to begin with. On the cuffs there are ties, but these do not tighten the cuffs, they are purely for decoration.
The neckline is not as low as some of my other dresses which makes it a nice choice for more casual days.
Over all, as it is slightly loose on me, it is a comfortable dress. The hem is long enough if you have a butt. I remember looking almost longingly at those able to wear shorts and miniskirts and have nothing show--this hem length will likely work well for all shapes. To maintain this length, however, I would not follow the tag directions for the first wash, as I anticipate the 100% cotton would shrink if casually tossed in the washer and dryer.

Quality
This was not the only item I ordered that had issues. I've limited this post to prevent this blog from looking like a brand-roast. The Marquise had the following slips in quality:

Below you can see a snag in the fabric and some stitches coming loose at the zipper.
close up of fabric snag and loose zipper stitches

The button panels do not exactly line up. Note this normally sells for over $200.
close-up of loose threads and button panels not lining up

close-up of button panel bulging near waist line


On the inside of the collar, it looks like a flaw in the fabric or a dull needle catching the threads and creating a run. The fuzzy section center-left is where it started to fray.
close-up of flaw near neckline
Upon close inspection, the fabric seems to be pulling at the threads. Perhaps the thread is too thick for the fabric, or the tension was not right. The photos featured in this blog are of the dress only tried on, and not worn and washed. 

Customer Service
They have a strict returns policy, so approach with caution.
I sent a message asking about what size to buy since they run small. I used two different personal email addresses in their "contact" page to send the message. I also sent an email to their paypal address, and a message on their Instagram with other questions. I called their phone number (something I never do) which no one answered. All five methods received no response.
I returned one item for store credit, and their customer service reached out letting me know it was received. I responded with my same sizing questions and FINALLY got a response.
After multiple returns and reorders with my store credit, I was finally issued a refund (this is against their policy). This was mostly due to issues on their end (improperly sewn goods, incorrectly advertised products, etc.). After all the problems I had with what I ordered, I'm not sure who is more relieved: myself, or their customer service? ;)
Unfortunately most product listings have very few details. Does it have pockets? A zipper? What is it made out of? What is its sizing? I understand it is tedious for a smaller business, but one would expect this for a $200+ product listing.
*Edit: they have recently updated their site to include more product information. Unfortunately, it shows what a large percentage is made of polyester.*

Sunday, May 27, 2018

Style Profile: Everything the Original Morticia Addams Wore

Little did Charles Addams know that when his comic character appeared in 1938, he would spark the beginning of one of the most iconic goth babes. Below are pictures of the original comics featuring Morticia.

The Dress

Morticia with family in front of house
Usually depicted with a plunge neckline, Morticia's dress was sometimes a scoop neckline instead. The drape changes from angling left to angling right. They could be different gowns, though it could suggest movement as well, possibly making this a bias-cut piece (common in the 1930s and allowing for more movement).

Morticia with family in car
There is no mention of the fabric which comprises her gown. H. Kevin Miserocchi mentions "gauze" in The Addams Family: an Evilution, though it is unclear who specifically dictated this fact.

close-up of Morticia in car
In this and other illustrations, the neckline appears to have a cowl-neck appearance.

Morticia watching Fester
She is perhaps wearing layers as the sleeves are tattered in two spots: along the 3/4 length line and at the elbow.

Other Outfits

Morticia with family on porch in sweaters

Morticia in speed car with Uncle Fester

Morticia in tank dress

Uncle Fester with mystery woman
This hooded mini-cape is worn by someone attending the movies with Fester. It could be a friend as the face looks very little like Tish as we know her. It could perhaps be her on an off-day.

Morticia and family on ferry-style boat
The umbrella: often recreated with a pagoda-style umbrella or lace, this is a simple period-accurate piece. They seem to care more about function than fashion.

The Makeup

Morticia on porch in winter
Her appearance is of the "undead" so one might assume her pale complexion and dark lips are simply a side effect of her natural state. However, if it is a created look on her part, the few colored drawings we have of Morticia usually depict black lips with pale skin. There are a handful of illustrations where she appears to have no eye makeup at all and others where eye shadow is donned.


Morticia with family in 1970s clothing
This picture with no context features an all-natural lip.

Morticia in unpublished comic
Although a potentially unpublished comic, her lips appear untainted.

Colorized comic of the Addams Family
There are a very few where her lips are red. Her eyebrows are high, arched, and rounded (similar to 30s starlets). This would make perfect sense as she first appeared in the late 30s. Many women tend to cling to some trends of their adult youth.

The Shawl

Morticia in shawl outside brick gate/fence
They are usually tattered-looking or feature tassels on the ends. Likely not a triangle shawl, judging by the shape.

Morticia in shawl scared by Lurch
It almost looks like a kind of sweater here as it clings to her arms.

Morticia and Gomez going out for the night
This one might perhaps be a triangle shawl wrapped around her. There are faint lines drawn at the top while her left arm is slightly visible. These could be interpreted as stripes, though it seems likely to be a lacy shawl due to its slightly sheer nature.

 The Hair

First Comic featuring Morticia Addams and a version of Lurch
On her debut in 1938, the unnamed glamour ghoul had her hair pinned back in a low bun.

Morticia Addams with an up-do
Two strands drape down each side

Morticia and dinosaur

Morticia knitting a baby's sleeper
It is typically straight, appearing have a slight wave as its silky strands fall on her collar bone and chest.

The Shoes

Barefoot Morticia asking for cyanide
With her feet typically hidden from view, here her bare toes can be seen: no stockings, no heels. Although it is maybe sexier to imagine she struggles with heels underneath that fitted frock, she appears to keep things very comfortable.

Fingernails

Morticia reading, "Foodless Recipes Phase IV"
Given all of her hobbies, it would be almost miraculous to have manicured nails. It is no surprise that in very few (one or two) her nails display polish.

Morticia looking at man hanging in noose
An illustration with nail polish

Hobbies

Morticia in woods with family and peacock wicker chair
Seen moonbathing, appreciating nature, gardening, going out to eat, knitting, tending to pets, watching tv and home movies, taking car and boat rides, occasionally shopping to her dismay, playing cards, reading (though not necessarily fiction), helping in the kitchen, and spending time with family.

Morticia under tree

Morticia with family in gazebo
Notice she's not a Barbie: two or three outfits for all occasions.

Morticia and Gomez in bed
Lingerie? Don't see anything special here...


Considered by many to be the original glamour ghoul, goth, fashion icon of darkness, Morticia Addams shows us simplicity with her fitted wardrobe of black. Shopping very little, her clothing is thread-bare, but her heart is full for her family.





Saturday, April 28, 2018

The VVitch meets Simplicity 1771

Simplicity 1771 altered to look like the witch's dress from The VVitch
This pattern features a dress with ruffles at the bust, sleeves, an apron, cape, and a scarf pattern. It is a fun collection for the casual costumer (not necessarily historically accurate, but hey, that's okay). The yardage is listed separately for the bodice, lining, skirt, and sleeves. This made it trickier to determine the yardage needed, so I ended up with way too much. I would estimate most sizes could make this (sans sleeves and ruffles) with 4 1/4-4 1/2 yards of fabric.

Pictured is a separate blouse I made myself out of cotton voile. I self-lined the bodice rather than covering the seams with ruffles and bias tape. The straps appear thinner than the photos. Perhaps the ruffles and sleeves take less seam allowance than lining the bodice? This worked in my favor because I was planning on narrowing the straps. To ensure the thin straps did not stretch out, I added seam allowance on the edges and made the shoulder strap a separate shoulder piece along the grainline. This adds a touch of historical accuracy.

dress in front of blossomed tree
The pattern says the hem seam allowance is 2 inches, however I needed 2.5 inches to make sure it didn't drag...and it still looks much longer than the package photos. For reference, I am 5'5".

It states no waist measurement, though I would estimate bust 34.5 is for a 26/27 inch waist.

dress layered with peasant-style blouse
I took 1 5/8 inches off the top for a few reasons:
1) The VVitch has a lower-cut bodice
2) This bodice wrinkled and was very loose at the very top. This might be because the added ruffles have bulk, requiring more room. Whatever the cause, cutting it down helped eliminate it.

Rather than stitching criss-crossing trim, I made loops out of the fabric by cutting a 2 inch wide strip approximately one yard in length on the bias. I folded it in half and stitched it length-wise closed with a 5/8 inch seam allowance. I then trimmed it down to about 1/4 inch and turned it inside out. Many say self-fabric loops should not have the allowance cut down to keep its fullness, however this was a heavier weight linen/cotton blend. Embarrassingly, I spent maybe an hour trying to turn it inside-out before caving and giving it a snip.

Sarah Stephens as The VVitch
For anyone wanting to recreate the look exactly, this pattern would likely do the trick. It features a ruffle along the neckline, wide sleeves, and a simple, hooded cape. Sarah Stephens pulls off dirt makeup better than myself, so I skipped that part.




Thursday, February 15, 2018

Vintage Pattern: "Slim Silhouette" Blouse and Skirt, Sizes 12-20

model from the 1950s in knit outfit
It is made of two separate pieces: a top and bottom with an elasticized waist. However, with some skills I believe this could be made into a multi-sized dress pattern. I think one could change the top and taper it into the bottom or vice versa if the knitter has a dress in mind but needs a different fit (my eventual goal ;) ). The gauge is 18x20 with needles needed to obtain it. It is made of ribbon, which is certainly unique, and provides detailed instructions on how to knit with such a foreign material. Note it is not made of a sport yarn (yay!) so for a change a vintage pattern might not take you eons to complete.


Lumberjackie Cropped Sweater Knitting Pattern

knit cropped sweater in front of 1800s cabin

The Lumberjackie sweater is a fitted, cropped sweater. The tapered sides are a relief from boxy sweaters and features a wide waist band to accentuate your figure. Partially based on a 1940s pattern, this top also features a straight needle collar. The waist is patterned to be approximately 25% smaller than the bust (example: bust 36, waist 27).
Sizes range from 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)* inches in the bust with size 7 and 8 needles and a gauge of 16x22. You will need approximately 1024 (1280, 1280, 1536, 1536) yards of worsted weight yarn.

Back
1. Cast on 52 (60, 66, 72, 78) on size 7 needle
2. Purl from wrong side 1 row.
3. Work a 2x2 rib (k2, p2) for 3 inches.
4. With size 8 needle, begin a stockinette with an increase 1 st on each side: K 1, M1L, K to last 3 sts, M1R, K1. This will prevent a curved side seam.
5. Stockinette 3/4 an inch and inc. 1 st on each side as in step 4.
Repeat this step 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) more times: 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sts
6. Stockinette until piece measures 11 (11.5, 12, 12.5, 13) inches [28 (29,  30,  31.75, 33) cm]

Shape Armholes
1: Bind off 5 (6, 8, 9, 11) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows: 62 (68, 72, 78, 82) sts.
2. On next right side row, make a left-leaning decrease: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts and make a right-leaning decrease by k2tog, k1—60 (66, 70, 76, 80) sts.
3. Purl 1 row.  Repeat last 2 rows 4 (5, 7, 8, 10) more times—52 (56, 56, 60, 60) sts.
4. Stockinette until armholes measure 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9)” [18 (19, 20.5, 21.5, 23) cm]
5. Cast off 13 (15, 15, 17, 17) sts at the beginning of the next two rows.
6. Make a 1x1 rib for 1 inch with remaining 26 sts. Cast off.
sweater on model in front of stack of chopped wood
Front
1. Work same as back until armholes measure 4½ (5, 5½, 6, 6½)” [11.5 (12.5, 14, 15, 16.5) cm]
2. On next right side row, k20 (22, 22, 24, 24) for left front, cast off 12 sts,  k20 (22, 22, 24, 24) for right front.
Work both shoulder pieces at the same time with separate balls of yarn.
3. Purl both fronts.
4: Knit to last 3 sts of first shoulder piece and make a right-leaning decrease with k2tog, k1. On 2nd front, make a left-leaning decrease with k1, ssk, k to end of row 19 (21, 21, 23, 23) sts for each shoulder piece. Repeat last 2 steps 5 more times—14 (16, 16, 18, 18) sts. Work even in Stockinette st on both fronts until armholes measure same as back armholes.
Bind off.

Sleeves (make 2)

1. With size 7 needles, cast on 32 (32, 36, 36, 40) sts.
2. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work in 2x2 Rib until piece measures about 2.5” (6.35 cm).
3. With size 8 needles, stockinette to 3 inches.
4. On next row, increase 1 st on each side by K1, M1L, K to last 3 sts, M1R, K1, stockinette 1.5 (1.25, 1.25, 1.125, 1.125) inches. Repeat this step 9 (11, 11, 13, 13) more times: 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) sts.
5. Stockinette until piece measures about 18 (18, 18½, 19, 19)” [45.5 (45.5, 47, 48.5, 48.5) cm]

Shape Cap
Row 1 (right side): Bind off 5 (6, 8, 9, 11) sts, knit to end of row—47 (50, 52, 55, 57) sts.
Row 2: Bind off 5 (6, 8, 9, 11) sts, purl to end of row—42 (44, 44, 46, 46) sts.
Row 3 (decrease row – right side): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—40 (42, 42, 44, 44) sts.
Row 4: Purl. Repeat last 2 rows 13 (14, 15, 17, 18) more times—14 (14, 12, 10, 8) sts.
Bind off.

Neckband
1. With right side facing size 8 needle, pick up 14 sts down left front neck edge, 12 at neck front, and 14 sts up right front neck edge— 40 sts.
2. Make a 1x1 rib for 1 inch.
3. Bind off loosely.

Sew shoulder seams, sleeve caps into armholes, side seams, and weave in ends.

*If you consider yourself to have very broad shoulders or have a very full bust, consider casting on the required stitches for one size up and increase to your normal bust size. The waist is narrow, and you want to make sure you can pull it over!

Top Edgier Knitting Patterns (Free!)

One down-side to sewing with non-stretch fabrics is some of them are not as comfortable as the cheap knits we've grown to love. Here are (free!) fashionable knits you can make and more importantly live in and enjoy. Remember you decide the yarn, color, and size. These can be styled many different ways. Some may require an email submission or free account creation.


Men's Nordic Cardigan

Classic Letterman Jacket

Gossamer Goddess lace top

Man Slouch Knit Hat Pattern
Darling Weekend Beach Cover-Up

Make Up Your Mind Racerback

garter stitch knitting sweater pattern for men


Party Time Sweater with Full Sleeves

Knitted Mens Tie

London Morning Knit Cardigan Pattern

Silken Straw Summer Sweater

Tin Can Knits Flax (Free)

Free Sugar Skull Sweater Pattern

Wonderwool Sweater Free Pattern
Big Box Knit Pullover
Big Box Knit Pullover

knit leggings
So Cosy Leggings

Deep V-Neck Sweater
Deep V-Neck Sweater

What have been your favorite "edgy" knitting patterns? I like to gift them because people tend to be surprised, "You knit that?"